Viva la Volunteer !
Late in November 2013 my partner Karlos and I were successfully selected by Volunteer Service Abroad (VSA) New Zealand to go on a 2 year assignment to Malampa Province in the Republic of Vanuatu to work with our partner organisation – the Malampa Office of the Department of Tourism. It had been a fairly long process of applications, tense interviews and briefings – involving many discussions about our roles, how to get organised, and what to expect in our new Melanesian locality. My role was to assist as a Tourism Business Development Adviser – harking back to my Bachelor’s Degree and cumulative experience in tourism, and work in both public and private service industries. Karlos was (at the time unassigned) to join me as an Accompanying Partner – however it was clear even at the first interview that my selection was closely linked to Karlos capabilities. He was a ‘computer savvy man’ destined to be utilised!
Karlos and I had previously visited Vanuatu as tourists in June of 2010 – visiting only the main island of Efate and mostly staying around the capital of Port Vila. We had a fantastic time and enjoyed the incredibly friendly and genuine people, the tours, and the ‘winter-time’ weather – as most New Zealand tourists would. My extended family had lived in Vila for 9 years so this had always been a place of fascination to me. This was to be a very new and intrepid prospect for us – having neither lived nor worked overseas for any period beyond 5 weeks. But –the time was right for us; I was not particularly enjoying the cut-throat and non-rewarding nature of my work in New Zealand, Karlos had just completed another year of study in Multimedia and Web Design and we were ready to hone our skills and have a new and unique challenge that tapped in to our particular skill-sets and (hopefully) contribute to society in a way that was more difficult for us to do together in New Zealand.
So – we said ‘Haere Ra’ to our friends and loved ones in Hawkes Bay and wider Aotearoa, said goodbye to hot showers, wine and cheese, and television, and have embarked on our journey of contribution, discovery and adventure in our South Pacific paradise.
Karlos ‘siesta-ing’ on a patch of grass outside Auckland Airport after our flight was delayed for 8 hours. Pre-tanning for the tropics!
Steamy in the South Pacific!
We disembarked our Air Vanuatu flight after our ‘false start’ at 10 p.m. local time to the wall of warmth and steam only those who have done this before can know. My camera fogged up due to the differential giving our first photo in Vanuatu a mystical quality. It was a moment of familiarisation and relief – despite our late arrival we were still welcome – the string band playing a version “Po Karekare Ana” to us – was that mist, perspiration, or were my eyes swelling? – it had been a long and emotional day. To greet us was also our in country team manager Andrew Johnston (also – I gratefully noticed – sweating away) and a familiar face – Anita Edgecome from VSA who is our NZ based programme manager and who spent many hours corresponding with us about all sorts of details. We were to have a two day Port Vila based orientation and meet and greet some of the significant counterparts before flying North.
The welcoming committee and groupie on arrival at Bauerfield Airport, Port Vila, Efate, Republic of Vanuatu. The camera fogging after going from air-con to humidity.
Dawn from the balcony at Hotel Kaiviti looking towards Iririki Island over Port Vila central.
Me – adjusting to the humidity on the first morning.
Meet and Greet.
During our time in Vila we had the privilege of meeting many important people! We met the head of the Department of Tourism and other key Vila based staff to discuss their strategic goals and specifically that of the Malampa Province – where we were heading. We also meet the head of the marketing arm of Vanuatu Tourism Linda Kalpoi of the Vanuatu Tourism Office to discuss the international marketing the office does on behalf of the Republic to the wider world. We met a very active advocate for provincial tourism – Frenchman Pascal Gavotto (also the owner of beautiful Fatumara Lodge) to discuss tourism training possibilities via TVET (Technical Vocational Education Training) to up-skill and assist local people in the province in tourism management. Finally we visited our High Commission and spoke to First Secretary of Development Ginny Chapman regarding the involvement of the New Zealand Government and New Zealand Aid in projects around Vanuatu. It was both enlightening and informative and made us both proud to be in some way representatives on the ground for some of the good and greatly appreciated work that is happening.
Arrival in Luganville, Espiritu Santo. Karlos (and Freddy the cat) underneath the woven natangura roof at Le Attraction de Hibiscus Hotel.
Sorting and Sifting in Santo.
After departing the capital Karlos and I flew north to the very beautiful and largest island (in the 80 plus islands that belong to the Republic of Vanuatu) called Espiritu Santo. Santo is the base for many VSA volunteers and home to the in-country manager. We were under the belief that after the business of Vila Santo would help us to slowly ‘acculturalise’ us to a more provincial lifestyle – ?
The main town Luganville was fantastic. The main streets were mostly flat, in a familiar grid pattern and very wide – double-laned – as a legacy to the thousands of allied troops (mainly Americans) that were stationed there during WW2. Luganville has a very clean and well-stocked supermarket, many agricultural supply stores, a good drug/medication store, a number of good – multipurpose stores, a hairdresser, and at least 4-5 good restaurants and cafes, and a huge market. Perhaps we were to be spoilt before we departed?
We had just over a week to sort all sorts of logistical issues – get local bank accounts, visit the hospital to get a medical for a drivers licence, go to the police to be authorised for a drivers licence, go to the customs office to get officiated for the drivers licence – actually many things to do to sort drivers licences. We also had to ‘pack’ for our trip. With the assistance and experience of Jim and Linda Bennie (also VSA volunteers – Jim being my equivalent for Sanma Province – except well-seasoned) we purchased for our voyage to ‘the real’ Vanuatu. We bought red kidney beans, lovely ground Tanna Island coffee, jarred olives, towels, pillow slips etc – things that we were told may be difficult to acquire in Malampa.
We also did a week (3 hours each day) of Bislama lessons with ex-VSA volunteer and now naturalised Ni-Vanuatu (having married a local man) Maxinne Liliord. Bislama being the local dialect of Pidgin English and most widely spoken outside of English and French. Can’t say we became experts but we read some lovely children’s stories and ‘Mifala emi savy smol Bislama nomo!’
Resident Gordon Gecko – master fly catcher!
The Luganville produce market – doing a roaring trade.
Delicious tropical Ni-Van breakfast of pamplemous (sweet green grapefruit) pawpaw, pineapple, and Tanna coffee.
Playing the Tourist.
So it wasn’t all logistics and officialdom in Santo. We were also very fortunate to have the best part of two free weekends free to tour around. Karlos and I took in the beautiful island of Aore – across the small stretch of ocean from Luganville Port. We toured the gardens, ate very well, bought a locally carved wooden tamtam (much like the ones in the picture below) and went snorkelling – unfortunately Karlos collecting painful sting from a rare close encounter with a blue bottle. Nothing that vinegar can’t fix.
Jim kindly escorted us up the east coast all the way to Port Orly where a New Zealand company has in recent years professionally constructed a tar-sealed roadway that opens up the entire north. Prior to this it was corrugated coral full of ruts and puddles that meant the average speed would be 20 kms per hour and the average life expectance of a 4×4 vehicle perhaps 5 years. They now could drive small cars. We particularly liked the New Zealand road signs.
We stopped in and met both ex-pat and local Ni-Van operators. Jim working with both – but mostly as a support and mentor to local tourism operators. Assisting with minimum standards, conducting training and even guiding the construction of local facilities out of local materials was part of his role as he explained. The coastline was postcard fantastic and the rivers – famous for their freshwater Blue Holes – were shades of cobalt through to azure blue beyond imagination. We visited fabulous KK1 Village who propagate and grow an amazing array of plants for retail – mostly to private businesses and frequently to local resorts.
Karlos outside an old American WWII hanger turned abandoned motor dealership in Luganville.
Picturesque tropical vegetation and copra plantation on Aore Island.
One of these things…. Ornately carved figures out of black fern Aore Island.
After a snorkelling run in with a rare Blue Bottle. Vinegar provides relief from the sting.
Ornamental pink bananas growing at KK1 Village in Santo. The villagers grow and sell a huge array of tropical species for sale to resorts and businesses to supplement their substance income.
Karlos and myself with the ladies of KK1 Village. Giants by comparison!
Local fuel station – Port Orly.
Karlos outside locally built and operated bungalow accommodation at Port Orly on the beautiful north-east coast of Santo.
On spectacular Port Orly beach – yes it truly was that beautiful!
Karlos and I sampling very tasty local manioc (cassava) Laplap – Laplap Aelan Kabis for Karlos and Laplap Bullock for me – wrapped in banana leaf – the island gladwrap.
Arrival at Riri Blue Hole Canoe (outrigger) trip.
Karlos taking a ‘selfy’ from the Kanu – Riki our young but very professional, fit and informative guide taking us up the river. The rainforest bird-song hauntingly beautiful.
The fantastic Riri Blue Hole. Riki shows us how to swing Tarzan-like in to the water.
Aquaman – Karlos snorkelling to inspect the fish species in the Riri Blue Hole.
Karlos and I boarding from Peko airport in Santo to head to Norsup on the island of Malekula – our home for the next 2 years.
Meet Malampa
Malekula is Vanuatus second largest Island. It is around 80km North to South and 40km East to West. Many people describe its shape as a sitting dog. It lies just south of Santo and is the largest in the province of Malampa – which also includes the island of Ambrym – famous for two of the most active volcanoes in the world, and the islands of Paama and tiny Lopevi – which also is mostly volcano.
The province is unique as it is almost entirely Ni-Van occupied and owned. Unlike other parts of Vanuatu the proud people of the province have retained land and operate their own businesses as well as participating in more traditional subsistence growing of fruit and vegetables to feed the family. Many people also work in the public sector as nurses, teachers, and for the Malampa Provincial departments.
It is here in Malekula – specifically the small town of Lakatoro where Karlos and I are assigned for our two years.
O for Orientation
Karlos and I arrived at Norsup Airport on the 2nd of February 2013. Incidentally also our 6th Anniversary. This was to be one to remember. Andrew also accompanied us to introduce us to our counterpart the legendary very capable and motivated Edna Paulo. At 33 years of age Edna had worked hard to achieve her position as Manager for Malampa Office of the Department of Tourism. Rare for a female in Vanuatu but it wouldn’t be long before we realised why she couldn’t have been overlooked. We found that Norsup Airport had been burnt down – the roof at least – about 10 years ago due to a dispute over whether the landowners was fairly compensated. The roof was still missing making it a very hot wait in the hot season sunshine.
We were very apprehensive as to our housing – people in Santo had filled us with dread as to what we may be expecting in more rural Vanuatu – however we were more than pleasantly surprised. Yes –our house is made out of traditional materials. However, we have four separate rooms – a well-appointed kitchen; with beautiful local hardwood cabinetry, tables chairs, and a food safe. A lounge; complete with sofa and two soft chairs, and a bedroom; with an inner sprung bed, and large wardrobe. The house is new with louvers and mosquito mesh over all windows. We have an internal concrete block bathroom – with toilet, shower, sink and vanity and an outside washing area with two large concrete tubs. We have solar electricity – currently not enough to power the large fridge/freezer – but we are working on that – but enough to run all of the lights, the laptop, a fan and charging the cell phones. Local houses are much cooler we have found and very grateful of that in the summer swelter.
Andrew Johnston our VSA In-Country Manager and Karlos at Norsup Airport.
Karlos and I arrive at our ‘whare’ – almost entirely made of local materials – natangura roof, woven bamboo walls and local timber supports and furniture.
Down to Business
Unfortunately Edna had to depart for a conference the first week of arrival for us at the Malampa Office so the lovely Serah Ety – the very capable and efficient Call-Centre operator kindly hosted us in the office for the week and answered (probably 100s) of my stupid new comer questions. Below are some features of our typical work day.
![DSC_0327[1]](https://outscape.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/dsc_03271.jpg)
State Highway One – the road from our place to Lakatoro town – a 25 minute walk.
My work station at the Department of Tourism – Malampa Province.
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